Accidentally forgot to assign this to the variant forum - moved.Here's how I like to play it, we generally call it "Phase 20", and we play it when we're in the mood for a longer game. You will need two decks. Take all the "skip" cards from one deck, label them "reverse" with a permanent marker. Be sure to put an "R" in the corner for easy identification. Add these reverse cards to the standard deck. Note: separate the wild cards from the second deck for one variant, but for the standard variant I play, it's just one full deck plus 4 reverse cards.Reverse cards: This adds an UNO-like element to the game. This makes it particularly important to pay attention to what both people next to you are collecting, and not just a single player who will always be downstream of you. Strategic reverses mean you can ping-pong around a player nearing phase completion.Simplified no-count scoring. Scoring is dead time, and this system eliminates it entirely: the first person to complete phase 20 and go out wins, and in case of a tie, there are three tie-only phases. This means that scoring a game really only involves keeping track of phases, eliminates a lot of dead time, and allows you to create a score sheet that's a bit more efficient.The phases:Standard first 10 phases.01. 2 sets of 302. 1 set of 3 + 1 run of 403. 1 set of 4 + 1 run of 404. 1 run of 705. 1 run of 806. 1 run of 907. 2 sets of 408. 7 cards of 1 color09. 1 set of 5 + 1 set of 210. 1 set of 5 + 1 set of 3The "Phase 20" phases:11. 4 sets of 212. 1 set of 4 + 1 run of 513. 1 set of 5 + 1 run of 514. 1 run of 4 + 4 cards of 1 color15. 1 run of 5 + 4 cards of 1 color16. 1 run of 1017. 1 set of 4 + 1 set of 518. 9 cards of 1 color19. 1 set of 6 + 1 set of 220. 1 set of 6 + 1 set of 3These are not all in order of increasing difficulty, as some differences in difficulty order keep the game a bit more interesting.The first person to reach Phase #20 at the end of a hand wins. However, it's entirely possible that more than one person will reach Phase 20 at the end of a hand, since the hand doesn't end until someone is out of cards. This is why Phase #20 isn't a 10-card phase.3 tie-breaker phases: These phases continue the game if and only if more than one player completes Phase #20 at the end of a hand. If more than one player completes Phase #21 at the end of a hand, continue to Phase #22. If more than one player completes Phase #22 at the end of a hand, continue to Phase #23.21. 1 run of 1122. 1 set of 1123. 11 cards of 1 colorSpecial rules for Phase #21 and #22: in these phases, the player needs every card in their hand including the one they just drew to complete a phase. In order to give everyone a fighting chance, every other player gets one more turn. If someone else makes their phase, continue to the next phase.Example: Two players (1 and 4) need to complete Phase 21. Player 1 completes Phase #21. Players 2, 3, and 4 get to complete one more turn each. If Player 4 does not meet his phase at the end of this turn, Player 1 wins. If Player 4 meets Phase #21, play continues to Phase #22.This "last chance for redemption" rule can be applied to the whole game without causing a lot of balance issues if you wish.Special rules for Phase #23: in this ultimate tie-breaking phase, the first person to meet phase #23 wins. Play does not continue around the board.Phases #21-23 are really fun, but games generally end without needing them. You may prefer to play phases #21-23 as normal (without play continuing one more turn around the board on completion of phase).Extra players. Anyone who has played 6-player games knows that shuffling starts happening pretty early and happens pretty frequently, and some players get locked out of phases if they're competing with one another for similar cards. I've played 7 and 8 player games by adding in the extra wild cards from the second hand, which keeps the games running a little better.Optional wild cards: Keep the 8 wild cards from the second deck handy. When a hand starts, any time one player is more than two phases away from the player with the most completed phases, that person's first card for the new deal is dealt from the extra wild card deck rather than from the normal shuffled deck. This gives stragglers one guaranteed wild card at the beginning of a hand. This is useful to keep the games more competitive, particularly with 6-player games where the stragglers would otherwise get discouraged (kids, games played while drunk, etc.). At the end of the hand, make sure the extra wild hand gets enough wild cards returned to it so that there are 8 again, so that a wild card introduced into the deck isn't a permanent addition.These wild card rules were put into place mostly to keep 7 and 8 player games running smoothly and to find a use for more cards out of that second deck.Equipment:One thing I found useful was to create a cardboard envelope that fits snugly around a card, allowing people to slide the card up to more easily keep track of the phase that they're on. I use the scorekeeping cards from the second deck around, too, and one or two of these loose on the table can help people look at what other people are doing.Scoring sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AiO2jYU8QayZdGx...I just print those out and each page lasts several games. Life's a lot easier and gameplay's a lot quicker when scoring just consists of striking through each phase number each player achieves.. New Phase 10 Card Game. Condition is New. Dispatched with Royal Mail 2nd Class. Cards are still in cellophane wrapper A rummy type card game with a challenging and exciting twist For 2-6 players A Condition is New.. Phase 10 Masters Card Game in Tin - Get through all ten phases before your competition and with the fewest points to win this rummy-like card game. A great game of skill and strategy for a fun and competitive game night! $10.99.